More and more customers received Foxflash ECU Chip Tuning Tool and tested on different cars. Here have collected the related customer feedback to let you know what it can do and what it can’t do…
Test OK Peugeot edc17c10, work fine on bench: read flash+ eeprom
Test VW edc16u1 ok: 5 min full read on bench
Test edc17c64 ok on bench
Test bench Peugeot 308 edc16c34 R/W ok
Opel 1.7 CDTI Denso SH 7059
R & W
PSA Citroen edc16c34 obd mode read and write ok
PSA EDC16C34 R/W OK (Y)
Hardcut added & Car started perfect
R/W CS OK BENCH MODE
With power laboratory
SKODA EDC17C64 Virtual reading and writing by OBD – OK
Read it automatically downloads the file from the server
EDC17C64 R/W OK
MED9.1 R/W OK
EDC16C9 R/W OK
EDC17C11 R/W OK
BMW edc17c06 bench mode read flash and eeprom+tun+cs+write
Car started fine
BMW MED17.2.5 R/W Ok (Y)
Seam’s like a stable & Reliable tool, very Internet dependant..
GUI is a bit hit & miss In terms of reloading drivers etc I find that I have to reload software but other than that It’s spot on..
(Maybe has to do with being in 32bit)
“foxFlash” arrived today
Tested with “Smart 453 NA ECU”
Verification of ORIGINAL data only (Can it be recovered if it fails?)
Read: ALL ⇒ OK, EEPROM only ⇒ OK, Flash only ⇒ OK
Write: ALL⇒?, EEPROM only⇒OK, Flash only⇒OK
For confirmation, check the identity of each written data and the original data ⇒ OK
Although it is a test on a high-spec PC, if this TOOL is connected from the beginning and the PC is started, the operation of the PC is unstable. I think that it is better to connect this TOOL after starting the PC. What I don’t like is that launching the app is not a one-action action and that changing the date from the current date is harmful… While this TOOL is connected, you can’t use other apps.
If you try to change the read data to something other than the displayed document (desktop), the app crashes.
What it can do, what it can’t do… I wish I could buy it for under $1000 and do this.
Expecting perfection from a clone is cruel.
It is a convenient item if you remember “ECU” that can read and write.
The supplied AC adapter does not provide enough voltage, so I am connecting an external stabilized power supply.
Probably, 3A or more is necessary… This is my case, but I use a cheap “out 13.8V/MAX 30A” on my desk, and a “GYS GYSFLASH 121.12 CNT FV” for the stabilized power supply to the vehicle.
I think it’s good to hear other people’s opinions too. I can’t say what I have is correct…
Thanks to all users’ feedback above!
To be continued…